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The man on a mission to make kale cool

Grantor Chris reveals how his single crop gamble came good

The brassica business wasn’t exactly booming for one of the nation’s most innovative farmers, Chris Molyneux – until he got a helping hand from music superstar Beyoncé. A year after becoming the fifth generation of his family to take the reins at their mixed farm in Lancashire, he’d decided to switch pretty much solely to kale.

It was an inauspicious start. Most sales were to fishmongers who wanted the bright green, frilly leaves to decorate the daily catch from the Irish Sea eight miles to the west. But within days of the American singer, actress, and dancer stepping out in a video wearing a sweatshirt emblazoned with the word Kale, things began to change.

What was once a trickle of orders became a flood, the singer’s endorsement sparking a life-changing series of events for grantor Chris. And it’s showed no signs of slowing since.

As the celebrity kale club swelled to include Friends star Jennifer Aniston, comedian Bette Midler and Gwyneth Paltrow, so did Chris’s order books.

Beyoncé's sweatshirt changed everything for the Lancashire farmer.

Beyoncé's sweatshirt changed everything for the Lancashire farmer.

“Kale is full of calcium and antioxidants and just about everything else – it's one of the best things you can put into your system”


Gwyneth Paltrow, Actor

His vision that the textured, curly green, packed with antioxidants, fibre, proteins and essential vitamins, would provide a year-round yield from his 280 acres of land had paid off. He speaks with evangelical zeal about the vegetable, which he has experimented with, tweaked and cross-pollinated to ensure this most versatile of vegetables continues to evolve.

Molyneux Kale is the only UK supplier producing green kale all year round, but Chris’s passion for “growing weird stuff” has also added red, black, cavolo nero and Red Russian varieties to the menu.

Beautiful igloos

As well as the taste Chris is also driven by the stunning pinks, purples, whites and reds that turn his Ormskirk fields into something resembling a flower shop display, so bright, vivid and bouquet-like is the crop.

“Kale is the most beautiful veg. The variegated varieties are stunning to look at colour-wise, but even in winter when it snows it creates little domed igloos in the fields that are beautiful,” says father-of-two Chris.

“But it’s the taste and goodness of kale that sets it apart. Depending on which type you have it can be sweet or peppery. We’ve even mixed one called kalette that comes in little florets and tastes like a cross between kale and sprouts.”

“Farming is like taking the value of your house in fivers, throwing it into the wind and hoping it comes back to you with a few pounds extra”


Chris Molyneux, Director of Molyneux Kale

Chris won’t stop experimenting either. By identifying attractive characteristics in naturally growing plants from one year to the next and cross-breeding these with different plants, he is developing new strains of the plant all the time.

The farm’s maritime climate and nutrient-rich soil along with Chris’ know-how, commitment to walking the fields and hand-picking as soon as has taken its course, are all secrets to his success.

‘Rockets and space stuff’

It’s not massively lucrative but he insists: “I have a real desire to feed people good food and it doesn’t come much better than kale. Farming is like taking the value of your house in fivers, throwing it into the wind and hoping it comes back to you with a few pounds extra.

“I was into rockets and space stuff as a kid, but in the end I did an agricultural degree, travelled the world and then came back here. I wanted to feel I was doing something worthwhile and farming is very much that.”

Chris, whose grown-up daughters are big devotees of dad’s produce, waxes lyrical when he’s asked to spotlight the range of dishes kale can elevate. From kale pesto to salad to stir fries, miso soup and even smoothies.

Debate rages on over whether it’s a superfood or not, with purists arguing it loses most of its vitamins when it’s cooked or baked as kale chips. But when it's raw – and it tastes great like that – it has few peers.

“The Beyoncé bounce was amazing and we’ve continued to see the benefit. There aren’t many people in their teens and twenties who don’t know about and love the stuff,” adds Chris. “Demand has peaked and levelled now, but we shipped 1,000 tonnes last year to markets, food service and local supermarkets like Booths.”

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280

The number of acres Chris has given over to kale production

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1,000

Tonnes - the average annual kale production from Molyneux Kale

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13

The number of products, including Italian chicory, spring green and chard, produced by Molyneux Kale

“A day without kale is like a day without sunshine”


Kevin Bacon, Actor

From Mull to Brighton

As soon as the textured leaves are cut from the plant, it’s a race against time to prevent wilting, drying out, and loss of colour and vitamins. Chris has installed a cooler that allows him to extract heat to retain moisture content before bagging.

“Our bags end up all over the UK. My daughters have called me from shops as far afield as Mull in Scotland and Brighton on the south coast, so the word is out,” grins Chris.

“We might have needed a bit of help from Beyoncé at first. Perhaps I should send her some merchandise, although it might be a bit late now.”

Know your kale

White Queen
A short compact plant that produces white flower-like tendrils from its frilly green leaves. It has a strong peppery flavour that becomes more sweet and nutty once cooked.

Kalette
Taste-wise, kalettes are the result of a cross between kale and Brussels sprouts. Looks-wise they're stunning long miniature florettes packed with goodness that are perfect for roasting, steaming, blanching, and stir frying or just eating raw with dips and salads.

Green curly kale
The leader of the pack. No nonsense, vibrant colour that feel and look as good and healthy as they taste. Large, ruffled leaves and long sugarsnap sweet stems make it a treat raw or cooked. It's a hardy brassica full of fibre that wilts and tastes gorgeous cooked, but is tender enough to be used as a raw salad green when young.

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